Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Gundlach Bundschu - 99

By all accounts, Gundlach Bundschu, or "Gun Bun," as it is affectionately known, should have been my very first blog entry. For I can credit Gundlach Bundschu wines for opening my eyes to the world of wine which ultimately caused me to move from Southern California to the wine country. Back around the time of my 30th birthday, at Bristol Farms (an upscale grocery store) in Manhattan Beach, there was a Zinfandel and Game dinner. It is funny to me that almost a dozen years later, I remember the menu; Wild Boar with Black Voodoo Sauce, Lamb Sausages with Spinach, Raisins and an Onion Confit, and Roast Quail with Spiced Raspberry Compote. And it was there I discovered GunBun's Zinfandel. Of course this was an age of Merlot and, being so impressed with their Zin, I promptly walked in the store and bought the current release of Merlot. The next three-day weekend we had, Shawn and I drove up to the winery, joined the wine club and bought a t-shirt. I'm glad I still have the t-shirt as that label design was retired several years ago...

Upon our arrival in wine country, jobs were a bit difficult to come by and after several months of unemployment, I had to call and cancel our membership in the wine club due to poverty. "Heck, you know the wines! Why don't you come and pour in the tasting room?" I was asked. I hardly needed prodding. I still moonlight in the tasting room on occasional weekends, wanting to keep my fingers in the GunBun pie. And now it is that much more enjoyable due to a newly redecorated tasting room.

Historically, Gundlach Bundschu is the oldest family-owned winery in North America. Jacob Gundlach arrived in America from Bavaria after a year-long boat journey around Cape Horn (there was a ship-wreck en route and he almost stayed in Africa!).  Jacob hired Charles Bundschu as his accountant and with Charles marrying Jacob's sixteen-year-old daughter, Francisca, the Gundlach Bundschu name was born. It was the Bundschu line that continued and there are still four generations of Bundschus living on the property. With a little over 350 farmed acres and five different micro-climates, the winery excels in growing over a dozen varietals. The estate, known as "Rhinefarm," makes up the bulk of winery's production, however there is a modicum of grapes that are purchased. This year, for example, there are three Zinfandels; a Rhinefarm (estate grown), a Sonoma Valley, and a Morse Zin (Bob Morse being a local history professor who just happens to live on ten acres of zinfandel property).

The business was started with a German varietal, Riesling, and while it saddens me that those vines were recently pulled out due to disease, the family has maintained their German roots with the continual production of a very lovely Gewürtztraminer, made in the Alsatian style with low residual sugar.

2004 Gewürtztraminer, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Bright, effusive grapefruit and citrus aromas. Clean citrus entry with a hint of spice on the finish. $22.00

2003 Tempranillo Rosé, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A pale red with pink tints on the edges, luscious red fruit with hints of strawberry balanced with cherry tones. Easy and best served well-chilled. $18.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dusty, dried floral aromas subside to show wild strawberry and earthy, musky qualities. Deep, complex layers show dark red fruit and dried heather. $32.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Cranberry and dark spice start but are soon coupled with dark strawberry and vanilla. A clear, pronounced entry shows hints of earth and oak with a structured, herbal finish. $28.00

2002 Tempranillo, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Tobacco and spice and brambleberry play together in this balanced, even wine. Some coffee in the mid-palate and dark, mineral qualities on the finish. $28.00

2002 Mountain Cuvée, Rhinefarm Vinyeard - An interesting blend of 75% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% each Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry in the nose gives way to hints of dark herbs. Still young, an easy-drinking wine that will mellow to accompany any food. $20.00

2002 Merlot, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dried herbs and dried cherry predominate the nose. Still a bit young, dark cherry with hints of dark chocolate and coffee promise a smooth, easy drinker in a year or two. $32.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Cassis and black boysenberry aromas anticipate the dark fruit entry. A hint of dusty cocoa shows in the mid-palate and the easy finish predicts another dozen years of lovely drinking. $32.00

2003 Zinfandel, Morse - Chocolate-covered blackberry easily makes this a wine to accompany dark, bittersweet chocolate with dessert. Mineral and herbal tannins in the mid-palate shows a supple, smooth quality. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley - Black licorice and minerals just barely hide dark, black cherry. Heightened acids are a tad astringent but I wouldn't hesitate to try this again in two or three years (only because I know how well these age). $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A massive, jammy fruit bomb knocks your socks off with lots of dark bramble fruit, spice, and a mocha finish. My favorite of the three. $32.00

Gundlach Bundschu ~ 2000 Denmark Street ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 707-938-5277

Hanzell - 98

It is no surprise that many are entranced with the wine country for its inherent, illusive magical qualities. Is it the mere beverage being produced? The landscape? The architecture? What is it about the wine industry (for it IS an industry!) that promotes an aura of mystique? I suppose it is why I moved here -- as a sort of spiritual quest, like Gawain searching for the Grail. I doubt a single piece of the puzzle will be found within the entirety of my blog, as I travel from winery to winery, but in visiting Hanzell, part of what I have been searching for has been found.

Locating Hanzell takes some work. After a side road is taken just outside of downtown Sonoma, a small, one-lane, unpaved road is driven until such time as you are convinced you have gone the wrong way. Then, after a gentle curve and the return of a modicum of pavement, an A-frame building makes itself known; majestic and regal, surrounded by vineyards.

Much of what makes Hanzell so magical is its phoenix-like history. The stunning building that invokes so much mystery was the cause for much trouble and consternation several years ago. Built in 1956 by the original owner, James D. Zellerbach, in 2003 the drains in the production area showed elevated levels of the chemical TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). You can see the drains in both the upper and lower section of this picture. In a move that shocked the industry, CEO and President, Jean Arnold, spent hundreds of thousands of dollars researching the problem, limited release on wines that had to potential for taint, and rebuilt the entire production area. What could have been the death knoll to the less stalwart, Arnold refused to give up and in moving forward, has brought Hanzell back with a vengeance.

A visit to Hanzell starts with a vineyard tour with Ben Sessions. He drove me around and showed me what made their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes unique, much having to do with their locale and the cool air flow up from San Pablo bay. Being situated at 850 elevation, their neighbors immediately to the east and to the north are blocked from that cool air flow. Following in Zellerbach's Burgundian tradition, there is a still a belief in the sense of terroir.

After driving through the vineyards, we walked through the newly constructed caves, where a most astonishing light fixture illuminates the great room. An iron-wrapped barrel with alternate staves removed and hung upside-down, provides shadows and a continuation to the magical sense pervading the property.

An appointment-only winery, the tastings are held in the building that is now only used for storage of new and library wines, next to doors that open up upon an amazing view of the vista below and in plain site of those very drains that caused the winery's rebirth.

2002 Hanzell Chardonnay - Initial sweet aromas of clean melon, pear, and apple with hints of minerality and warm kiwi. These are coupled in the flavors that excite and expand to show layered lemon zest and a graceful, enticing mouthfeel that teases to a clean, balanced finish. $55.00

2001 Hanzel Pinot Noir - Astounding 'wow' factor with dark, elegant berry playing alongside dusty, smooth mineral qualities. Dark, musky wild strawberries couples with textured, elegant leather and subtle spice in the mid-palate. One of the most Burgundian of California Pinots I have tasted, an earthy depth proves exceptional quality and ageability. $85.00

Hanzell Vineyards ~ 18596 Lomita Avenue ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-996-3860

Matanzas Creek - 92

Matanzas Creek has quite a reputation, but their reputation is for much more than their wine. Over 25 years ago, when founder Sandra MacIver was building her estate, she recalled the love of her grandmother's gardens. Years later, when building their tasting room, Sandra and husband, Bill, met a landscape architect who planted six different gardens with over 4,500 lavender plants.

As the lavender is harvested in late June or early July, that is the most beautiful time of year to partake in the vast purpleness of Matanzas Creek. When you enter the estate, you not only drive past the vast acreage of lavender bushes, but alongside an amazing fountain which looks as though a single standing stone is balancing a precariously-placed stone lintel.

The tasting room is nestled and barely visible among some large, overgrown trees. There are benches available outside and as this is one of the few wineries on a long stretch through Bennett Valley, makes for a great bicycle stop and rest area.

The tasting room is appropriately bedecked with lavender items for sale, but also the entire aesthetic is in an Arts & Crafts sensibility to surroundings. The only downside of the surroundings in wine tasting, is that the bouquet of lavender permeates the area and makes for smelling wine a tad difficult.

2002 Sauvignon Blanc - Some soft touches of lemon tease at first but crisp, overt citrus presents itself in a full, blossomy mouthfeel. Ever so slightly creamy finish suggests this wine saw a bit of oak $20.00

2002 Chardonnay - Lemon peel and grapefruit with a luxury of cream surprise the nose. Clear pear and melon show in the mid-palate and a touch of fig on the finish exhilarates. $30.00

2002 Merlot - Red garnet in color, dried floral and dried twigs show immediately and then are tempered with a bit of dark plum. Berry and cocoa dance in the mouth with a dusty finish. $30.00

2001 Bennett Valley Merlot - Fruit-concentrated aromas show immediate dark cherry and blackberry with hints of spice. The flavors continue the dark fruit but balances with smoke and a finish of twigs and dried flowers. $60.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Dried flowers and rich plum blossom in the nose. Dark, complex berry tones provide a concentrated mouthfeel with a hint of dusty, dried floral on the finish. $35.00

2002 Sonoma Valley Syrah - Extremely vibrant offering. Inky in color with hints of purple on the edge, dark barbecue meat and jammy fruit shows immediately in the nose. Soy sauce, orange peel, and blackberry liqueur variably displays in the flavors, and an accomplished, menthol finish does not disappoint. $25.00

Matanzas Creek ~ 6097 Bennett Valley Road ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95404 ~ 800-590-6464

Imagery - 86

Imagery touts itself as more than just a winery. It is no secret that I hold in high regard wineries that support the arts, but Benziger-owned Imagery goes far beyond simply supporting the arts; they call themselves "Estate Winery and Art Gallery." And what an art gallery it is - on the walls and on the bottles. Every single Imagery release has a decidedly unique, artist-designed label that must include an image or allusion to the Parthenon. On most winery websites, there are biographies of the owners and the winemaker. Here, there is also a biography of Bob Nugent, the curator of the continually growing exhibit which began with their first bottling in 1985. Nugent not only curates the in-house exhibit, but is an accomplished artist in his own right, and a tenured professor of art at local Sonoma State University.

It would be easy to continue to expound the virtues of Nugent and the art, but other factors need to be taken into consideration -- like architecture and atmosphere. The building complex is appropriately moderne with some natural rock united with industrial siding reminiscent of any metropolitan city's artist lofts. A garden, an instructional walkway, and alluring landscaping all comprise what awaits the visitor.

The sales area is not only filled with the expected retail items, but many artistically-befitting items which carry on the whimsical themes viewed throughout. The tasting bar is large, but does not impede the view to the number of galleries which lie behind it. The staff, even when deluged with customers, are gracious and helpful.

With all the accolades laid upon the visuals of Imagery, it is in due course that I should mention the wine. Imagery was started by Joe Benziger as a sister winery to his family's larger endeavor, Benziger. As I have yet to blog the older sibling, I can only imagine that Imagery is the playful youngster; a place where Joe can have fun in his craft. I am only guessing, but it comes about from the interesting varietals that are found at Imagery - fun, intriguing, and with exception of a Cabernet Sauvignon (which I did not taste), not your grandfather's wines:

2004 WOW Oui - An blend of Sauvignon Blanc with Muscat Canelli. An initial sweet smell confirms the Muscat grape but the overt grapefruit entry almost overwhelms. Some floral, but the grapefruit predominates. $24.00

2003 White Burgundy - A blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Blanc, and 10% Pinot Meunier produces a wine that is pale yellow in color with a combination of aromas of both pineapple and butter and hints of tropical fruit. A surprisingly sweet entry shows butterscotch but mostly it feels like a sugar-coated California Chardonnay while trying towards a French sensibility. $27.00

2002 Malbec - Initial jammy aromas subside to show more black pepper and tobacco. The muscular entry thins to produce plum and mineral. Exotic at first entry and muskier than most. $36.00

2002 Stone Dragon Syrah - Dark, purple/black to the very edge. Fully concentrated with roasted almond and mineral qualities in the nose. Huge and full in the mouth, the lingering aroma and chewy mouthfeel has a punch at the end showing great umph. $35.00

2002 Petite Sirah - Intensely concentrated and an almost solidly black wine. Dark jammy black raspberry and blackberry couple with clove and pepper. Exotic and erotic Middle Eastern spices in the finish including cardamom and sumac. $36.00

2003 Petite Sirah Port (500 mL) - Everything the 2002 has in flavors and aromas except concentrated into a syrupy liqueur lovliness accentuated with dried floral qualities behind the jamminess. Not just sex in a glass - this is complete copulation with orgasm. $32.00

Imagery Estate Winery and Art Gallery ~ 14335 Highway 12 ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 877-550-4278

Arrowood - 85

Arrowood Vineyards was started by Richard Arrowood in 1986 while he was making wines for Chateau St. Jean. In the beginning, it was just he and his wife, Alis Demers Arrowood, working alone. Richard didn't just up and quit Chateau St. jean to start his own winery. For the first several years, it was Alis who worked the cellar, offered tours, and managed the business while Richard held down both jobs. Their first release was in 1988 and fame quickly followed.

Now, with over a dozen varietals offered through Arrowood's tasting room, I should have actually listed them under six of Sonoma's thirteen appellations, as their wines are made from Alexander Valley, Dry Creek, Knight's Valley, Russian River, Carneros, and greater Sonoma vineyards. The large, gleaming white building complex shares an entrance way with Imagery Winery on the Sonoma Highway so I have blanketed them under the Sonoma Valley appellation.

Their tasting room is expansive and open with the bar area set in front of large, inviting windows which provides natural light that is warm and spacious. The staff are informed and helpful, especially with the obscure questions that tends to come from one such as I. While there are some of the expected offerings of Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet, I tried to keep my tasting geared more towards some of the unusual varietals:

2001 Pinot Blanc, Saralee's Vineyard - Pale, straw colored has an initial aroma of sweet melon and kiwi. Easy and creamy in its entry, delicate pear that is elegant and smooth. $25.00

2002 Côte de Lune Blanc, Saralee's Vineyard - An unusual blend of white Rhone varietals; Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier.  Astonishingly bright floral subsides to show some tropical fruit with hints of grapefruit underneath. Effervescent entry displays more of the floral qualities also reveals hints of minerality. $20.00

2004 Gewürztraminer, Saralee's Vineyard - Alsatian styled with low residual sugar, there is a definite surprise at the complexity in floral, grapefruit, and sweet aromas. The mouth entry is easy and mirrors the floral qualities, but brightens to produce a bubble-gum finish. $20.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - This wine spent 30 months in both French and American oak and was culled from 15 different vineyards. A modicum of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot is blended in to reveal layers of anise, black pepper, and green bell pepper behind the dark fruit. A cassis-dominated entry pairs with black licorice to show chew spice. Would love to taste again in ten or fifteen years. $45.00

2000 Syrah, Saralee's Vineyard - Blended with 5% Viogner, purple and inky dark in color demonstrates black cherry, smoky spiced anise, and burnt grass. Spiced jammy entry continues in smokiness with hints of green bell pepper. $39.00

2000 Syrah, Sonoma Valley - Inky blackness in the glass transcends to ripe, blackberry liqueur with soy sauce. Perfumey and heady in its BBQ qualities that does not seem to end. $35.00

2003 Select Late Harvest White Riesling, Alexander Valley - Choosing grapes with Botrytis cinera, this lovely dessert wine is exceedingly clean with tones of light honey and bright, fresh orange blossoms. Easy and not overtly sweet, despite its 9.3% residual sugar. Lovely... $25.00

Arrowood ~ 14347 Sonoma Highway ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-935-2600

Navillus Birney - 84

If you like word games, than Navillus Birney has a great one for you to play with. Write the world Navillus on a piece of paper and hold it up in a mirror. Yep, Navillus is actually Sullivan in reverse. It seems that when Rick Sullivan and Jonelle Birney Sullivan started their winery back in 1998, they understandably wanted to put their name on their label. And they did so for several years, while their wines gained in fame and following. Little did they know that another Sullivan Vineyards, having made wine out of Napa for twenty-some years, would add a level of confusion between the two... They did the next best thing by keeping their name but reversing the letters.

While their actual wine-making facility is adjacent to their home on Sonoma Mountain Road, the Sullivans have made the heart of Glen Ellen in Sonoma home for their tasting room. They purchased the historic "Mercantile" building which was built in 1920 and the room is lovingly decorated with amazing displays of local historic celebrities, most notably, M.F.K. Fisher (whose own house was a mere two blocks away).

While only presenting two varietals (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir), Navillus Birney has something special going for them; Rolando Herrera as winemaker. I have written about Herrera in other blog entries as well as other published articles and he is a winemaker whom I am keeping an eye on for both future and present greatness.  Out-of-the way and definitely charming, Navillus Birney makes a perfect lunchtime stop as they are in a neighborhood of some exceptional hidden restaurants including The Fig Cafe and Glen Ellen Inn Restaurant.

2003 Sonoma Mt. Chardonnay - 100% malo shows classic kiwi, lemon, and grapefruit notes. Clear in its bright yellow color, a fruit-forward mouth entry has a tangy, bright finish. $30.00

2003 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay - 100% malo. Yellow in color that is almost fluorescent, effusive citrus in nose and flavor that blossoms to show lime and a finish of lemon peel. $30.00

2002 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - Light garnet and slightly cloudy with orange tint on the edge. Initial aromas of earthy brett, dark herbs, and mushrooms with pale, cherry fruit. A slightly effervescent entry subsides to display anise in the mid-palate and perfumey finish of dried roses. $28.00

2002 Sonoma Mt. Pinot Noir, Katherine Vineyard - Ruby color throughout produces an earthy raspberry aroma with a tease of smoke. The entry is at first dusty with cocoa and clove spice, and brightens to show a heather floral finish. $34.00

Navillus Birney Winery & Vineyards ~ 13647 Arnold Drive ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-933-8514

Mayo - 75

I have seen the light and been shown the holy of holies -- and it is food. I have long been a proponent of food and wine pairing to the extent that I can easily sell more wine when I start to describe the various cuisines that can be paired with this Merlot or that Cabernet Franc. There are a few wineries that do minimal pairings (a bite of cheese here, a handful of nuts there), but Mayo Family Winery has taken it to the wondrously full extreme; full pairings of seven of their wines in a simple sit-down setting, for the shockingly low price of $20.00.

I must add a caveat to this adventure; there is more than one Mayo Family Winery tasting room. The first one I went to is just off the Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen before I was advised that the Reserve Tasting Room is another four miles up the road, in Kenwood, on the main bustling stretch of the same highway.

Situated on the bottom floor of a two-story building, the tasting room has a bar which runs the length of the room and I imagine that standing-room-only will start to fill up after the eighteen actual tabled seats get filled. Open only three weeks as of this writing, I predict that even finding a place to stand at the bar will soon be impossible...

Fortunately, I went on a quiet Sunday afternoon before the tourist season gets into full swing. A member of the Mayo family, Jen, greeted us and after we sat, explained that their in-house chef, Billy Oliver, has carefully paired each of the seven wines we were about to taste with a small morsel of food which will be served in stages. As she poured the first three wines, Oliver himself appeared very shortly after the glasses were filled with the first plate of three tastes. Jen explained that all the wines are single vineyard designate. The following are the wines plus their individual food pairings:

Goat Cheese and Summer Squash Roulade, paired with
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Emma's Vineyard, Napa Valley, 'Unwooded' - From the top of the plate, very thinly-mandolined, intensely fresh zucchini were wrapped around Laura Chenel chevre goat cheese. The goat cheese had obviously been whipped to a premium smoothness. The Sauvignon Blanc was very, clear pale; almost colorless. This is a SauvBlanc for food without the usual astringencies or overwhelming acidic tones, this easy-to-drink offering showed flavors of well-integrated dried herbs which expanded in the mouth when paired against the goat cheese. Subtle hints of melon and a whisper of citrus that was smooth and simple. $20.00

Lavender Pistachio-Crusted Prosciutto and Crenshaw Melon Lollipop, paired with
2003 Viognier, Sunny View Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 'Henry's Cuvee' -  This was a slightly aged Viognier as was evident from the rich, sunny yellow color of the wine. The sweet aroma of lemon meringue pie, with its perfect combination of citrus and cream, hinted that an intensely sugary and syrupy sensation was to follow. Conversely, the flavors were darker and richer than anticipated showing astonishing richness and complexity in its spikes of acidity with the long, creamy finish. The lollipop of melon and prosciutto enhanced the creaminess in the wine. The pistachio crust was an inspiration as the hint of toast in the nut provided a more complex layer to the wine. $30.00

Hazelnut-Arugula-Duck Liver Pâté with Strawberry Drizzle, paired with
2003 Pinot Noir, Piner Ranch Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 'Reserve - Holly's Block' - An almost odd, French-style Pinot, the slightly murky, brownish red color displayed a fruit bouquet that seemed already well-aged. The easy, smooth entry showed a balance of acids and tannins with some hints of burnt toast and Moroccan spices that faded to provide an easy complement to the pâté. Oliver's tease of a strawberry drizzle easily emphasized the strawberry notes in the wine and the earthiness of the pâté seemed to enliven a creamy nutmeg in the back-palate. $45.00

The second flight began with a clearing of the glasses and another plate of three tastes:

Braised Boar Shoulder with Huckleberry and Pecan Jam, paired with
2002 Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 'Reserve - Old Vines' - A wine showing jammy, dark fruit aromas heightens with spice in the back of the nose. Intense, smooth mouth entry reveals a layered tease of both coffee and ripe dark plum. Again, a mere sample of some fruit incorporated into the boar's meat brings forth the flavors of caramelized fruit. Hints of brett in the wine excite the gaminess of the meat. $40.00

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Coffee-Marinated Lamb Chop with Coriander-Pablano Chili Oil and Cilantro, paired with
2003 Merlot, Laurent Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, 'Nellie's Block' - Overt and extremely intense aromas of jammy blackberry almost overwhelm, making me question if I wasn't smelling a late harvest wine. Hints of oak and vanilla began to integrate as I took my first bite of lamb. The perfectly grilled offering was not overwhelmed with spicy oils, as I might have feared, but given just enough to enliven the senses and profoundly expand the blackberry qualities of the wine. Chef Oliver was obvious in his exuberance of this dish and it was easy to see why. The back-palate showed astonishing flavors of cream with herbs and more fruit in the finish. A masterful pairing. $35

Cured Beef Tenderloin with Mushroom Duxelle and Fingerling Potato, paired with
2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa River Ranch, Napa Valley, 'Julie's Block' - Dark, dried cranberries and currants coupled with dried herbs surprised me as the wine already presented itself as complex before tasting. This was the second wine of note that appeared to be more balanced and integrated at such an early age. The mushroom duxelle provided an earthy, erotic base that complemented the dark, earthy structure in the wine. The finish showed more elegant, dried herbs. $40.00

The final pairing is dessert, but beforehand, I specifically asked about their Syrah, which was not on the food pairing list, but offered to me for tasting...
2003 Pagel/Nord - Syrah, 'Lylyann's Block' - Almost purple in color with concentrated dark spice and berry, another smooth, easy-to-drink, jammy wine showed hints of dried twigs and herbs with juniper, cassis, and cranberry tones. Long, velvety finish just doesn't quit. $35.00

Grand Marnier Chocolate Truffle and Stilton Blue Cheese, paired with
2003 Zinfandel Port, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 'Old Vine' - Jen let out a secret that astounded me and made me fall in love before this wine ever hit my lips; this is a Zinfandel that has been fortified with a brandy. But that is not what astounded me -- it was that the brandy they having been using came from the now defunct RMS Alembic distillery which was a longtime favorite of mine before their demise. It seems the Mayo family are one of the few who were able to acquire several barrels of the alembic after RMS shut its doors and if I could, I would buy as much of this Zin Port as I could, knowing that their supply of it is limited as well. Dancing back and forth between the chocolate and Stilton, it was hard for me to determine which was the better pairing. Stilton is a classic favorite for pairing with any über-jammy port and this was no exception, showing layered qualities of creamy caramel and dark cocoa. Alternately, the chocolate truffle, with its hint of orange from the Grand Marnier, provided brighter, pecan-like toasty notes from the Zin. Another inspiration. $30.00/350ml

It was hard to contain the excitement and enjoyment being experienced as it truly WAS an enlightening to have exceptional food paired so well with great wines. Chef Oliver was able to chat with me during my tasting as he and Jen adequately managed the other guests by themselves -- my prediction is that they will need to hire a lot more staff as others discover this amazing gem of a tasting room. I specifically asked Chef Oliver about the astonishingly low price and his response was they were not out to gouge people. There is no doubt they could easily double the price and still have it be considered a tremendous bargain. It will be great fun to go back as the seasons change as Chef Oliver also indicated he will be updating the menu often as different ingredients become available. Although I doubt I will wait that long. Call for reservations; open only Thursday through Monday, from 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room ~ 9200 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5504

Sebastiani - 44

Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery is one of the old stalwarts of Sonoma, having been in business for just a hundred years. Their vineyards are even older. In 1904, Samuele Sebastiani purchased vineyards that had been planted by the Franciscans back in 1825. Samuele's son, August, took over the winery in 1944 and increased the production exponentially, introducing America to "Nouveau" Gamay Beaujolais, and gaining a reputation as a skilled winemaker.

The current facilities lie just a few walking blocks away from picturesque downtown Sonoma Square. It is a lovely walk, by the way, as you past many historic buildings. The building facilities are large and daunting and the entrance to the tasting room is awe-inspiring with its tremendous bounty of booty to be purchased.

I will frequently bemoan the wine-related tschotchkes that are peddled in most commercial tasting centers, but I have to admit that the sheer volume AND quality of plates, decorative items, jewelry, housewares, and clothing at Sebastiani has yet to be surpassed. The other surprising factor (for me, at any rate), was the quality of the wine. Being a baby-boomer, there is a certain reputation that certain wines have by virtue of having been served "by the carafe" to my parents when I was growing up.

2004 Pinot Noir Blanc (Eye of the Swan) - A Pinot that sees skin contact for 24 hours. Rather nice balance of acid and a touch of sweetness. Bright entry blossoms in the mouth for a full, creamy finish that suggests banana. $13.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast - Massive fruit bomb. Somewhat harsh coffee, strawberry entry levels out to a smoother finish of vanilla. $15.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros - Oaky aromas slowly hint at a jammy cherry bouquet and a hint of petrol. Acidic mid-palate and a rather strident finish. $24.00

2001 Zinfandel, Sonoma County - Enticing smoky raspberry and lavender notes anticipates the mouth feel quite nicely. A fruit forward finish with a touch of spice. $15.00

2002 Domenici Zinfandel - Fruit bomb aromas of jammy raspberry which fade to produce a little candy shop spice. Velvety entry produces a balanced, even taste with a slight spiced punctuated finish. My pick of the tasting! $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - Green bell pepper scents subsides to produce overtly blackberry tones. Herby mid-palate finishes in spicy qualities. $17.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, "Cherryblock" - Very fruit-forward, jammy aromas of dark fruit and a touch of oak. Opulent-style apparent on entry with a hot mid-palate that will subside with aging. A balanced, mineral finish didn't disappoint. $75.00

2004 Sylvia Sebastiani's Symphony - Symphony is a hybrid grape developed by Dr. Harold Olmo of UC Davis comprised of Alexandria Muscat and Grenache. This wine is grown in the Clarksburg Appellation in Yolo County. The wine is a light straw color and being over 3% residual sugar, is a tad sweet. Aromas and flavors of grapefruit and more subtle tropical fruits. $15.00

Ledson - 21

Along the Highway 12 corridor lies an amazing building. It is the home of Ledson winery and the building is an Addams Family-like black brick, Gothic castle. There is nothing like it in either Sonoma or Napa -- or elsewhere that I can recall. Although it is easy to ascribe the Addams Family as potential inhabitants, it is truly an artistic marvel with a slate stile roof, turrets, spires, and arched entrance ways which contrast with the white window frames, offering a clean sense of stylistic design.

Arriving through the gates, a slow, meandering drive amongst the vines towards fountains and beautifully manicured laws, puts the visitor at awe with his or her surroundings. Much of what Gothic architecture is meant to do is inspire. Based out of 10th Century France, it was an aesthetic movement coming from an era where paganism had just been extinguished and the Catholic Church was establishing itself as the sole spiritual power in the land.

The outline of the architectural movement is derived from the Carolingian developments of Byzantine modifications of the early Christian basilica. In short, it included double western towers, a central tower over the crossing, and a threefold interior system of arcade, triforium, and clerestory. The architecture was mostly seen in churches of the era and was meant to instill fear and adoration in a higher being, namely God.

Why am I writing a short dissertation on Gothic architecture, might you ask? Well, when you arrive at Ledson, whether or not you understand the cultural significance and import, the bottom line is that the imposing structure automatically instills a level of adoration that has yet to be earned, be it a church or a winery. Upon entering the hallowed hallways of Ledson, one is immediately presented with tremendous vaulted ceilings, sweeping stairways, and an imposing chandelier. It is all stunningly beautiful.

Roaming around the establishment, I learned that there are no less than NINE different tasting bars. I was there on a rainy February afternoon and the place was swamped with customers with only four of the nine bars actually serving that day. Being able to finally muscle close enough to a bar for a taste, I was a tad discouraged when I inquired about tasting their Pinot. "Oh, that's the worst wine we make!" I was told. Not being encouraged, I simply asked him to pour me the wines that were recommended. And while I know I tasted six or seven, I stopped taking notes after the third wine...

2001 Alexander Valley Sangiovese - Aromas of ethyl alcohol. Hot. Burned going down.

2001 Old Vine Zinfandel - Bouquet of petrol. A hint of fruit and spice. No finish.

2002 Bellisimo- A blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Concetrated black fruit nose which belied the gasoline taste.

To get out of Ledson, one must manage the maze of retail. It is rather clever that you can't go out the way you came in, you have to exit a side entrance through a tremendously-stocked marketplace. It is truly an amazing store that includes cold cuts and cheeses, an espresso bar, a dessert fridge filled with handmade goodies, gifts, and of course, their wine...

Ledson ~ 7335 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Santa Rosa ~ CA ~ 95409 ~ 707-537-3810

Kunde Estate Winery - 20

Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards is located along that stretch of roadway between downtown Sonoma and Santa Rosa, in the community of Kenwood. I realize now that I had a huge misconception about Kunde. I don't know where I got it, but I have to admit I thought them more along the lines of your standard supermarket wine. I was pleasantly surprised. Also, from here on out, I will try and provide bottle prices on the wines I taste. Who knows, maybe I'll go back and put them into the older tastings as well...

I didn't know that Kunde have been land stewards going back five generations to 1904. Part of this legacy means that they take care of the land, protecting and nuturing it to assure its continued well-being and positive development. While not being certified organic, they do avoid the use of synthetic pesticides and utilize practices that promote the development of a healthy ecosystem.

The tasting room is expansive and comfortable. Huge, vaulted ceilings and a large, free-standing tasting bar helps the visitor to keep from having that claustrophobic, boxed-in feel which can happen with smaller establishments. The retail bits are there, but are not intrusive and tastefully displayed. The pouring staff are helpful and informed (well, almost too informed, but I think that was just one guy trying to show off some arcane insider knowledge).  And the wine was quite decent!

2003 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc - I loved that this wine was made with no oak, but purely stainless steel. Citrus aromas and a touch of mint with a very nicely balanced, full pineapple filling the taste. $16.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay - Well, at a 100% malo, this is not a chardonnay that is typically a style I appreciate. However, I was pleasantly surprised at the extremely elegant sensation of honey in the nose and on the tongue. A tad of toasted oak on the finish which was very long and silky. $35.00

2003 Viognier - Tremendous green apple and and honeysuckle bouquet. Exotic floral notes and jasmine filled the mouth and a bite of pepper provided an exciting ending. I would have bought this one, had I remember my wallet! $23.00

2002 Gewurztraminer - At 2002, I think this wine may be a bit beyond its peak. The guy pouring for us was trying to find the winemaker's notes as I was very curious as to the residual sugar level. He seemed to think it was less than 1%, but I think it was closer to 2% or 3%. I did get some elegant floral notes but there was a metallic finish which may have also been due to the wine being a bit too cold. $13.00

2001 Sangiovese - Strong candy store smell, which I like in a San! Very full-bodied and even tannins produced a peppery, spicy finish. $24.00

2001 Barbera - Another wine with that candy store smell. I wonder if I should explain that -- it is an aroma which used to be prevalent in penny candy stores of the 1960s and early 1970s. Incomparable, exotic aroma for a kid. Still there in the olfactory memory. This wine and the previous San had it. Well, tasting this Barbera gave some dried fruit and floral notes and a huge, spicy finish of clove and summac. $24.00

2000 Founder's Selection Claret - 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Obvious Franc bouquet of vegetation and herbs. The palate provides a bit of berry fruit but more mint and the finish is all green bell pepper. $25.00

2001 Century Vines Zinfandel - Made form 122 year-old Zinfandel vines. Spicy nose and massive roasted plum entry. Wanes a bit to a tinny finish. $28.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Drummond Vineyard - Surprisingly bricky color, due to its age. Berry bouquets and a decent structure despite some acidic tannins. The color of the wine would suggest it is older than it is and I think it would probably age quite well. Some elegance there. $70.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon - 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Pronounced bell pepper nose and what I think was bright, enticing fruit which had been dulled by oxydation due to being opened the day before. $21.00

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Kunde Estate Winery & Vineyards ~ 10155 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-5501

Bartholomew Park - 19

Bartholomew Park Winery, often referred to simply as "BartPark," has quite a bit of history going for it. Now there are some wineries worth going to for the historical ambience and sheer aura of age. Fortunately, BartPark has the aura, the history, and good wine going for it.

Truly, this establishment can be considered the birthplace of the California wine industry and being a huge history buff, I appreciated the museum housed within the building. Along with the museum displays, there is a great deal of information on the local viticultural heritage and a wall of pictures devoted to Sonoma growers. It is one of the few places in either valley that celebrate more than the owners. Throughout the museum, there are displays which honor the vineyard worker and the growers wall truly immortalizes the farmers who provide the grapes.

The father of the California wine industry was Count Agoston Harasazthy who planted grapes on this property as early as the 1830s. The buildings on the property were Agoston's personal mansion and the estate was named Buena Vista. (To clarify a point of confusion, "Buena Vista Winery," which will be reviewed at a later time, was part of the original estate and contained the wine-making facilities. The buildings that now house Bartholomew Park were Haraszthy's ancestral home.)

As you continue through the museum, you learn that after it was a winery, the estate was acquired by a women, Kate Johnson, at the turn of the last century who shared the property with 200 Agoura cats. Most interestingly, under the auspices of the State of California, it became the State Farm for Delinquent Women and housed "women of disrepute." Much of the layout of the building as a sort of hospital is still visible.

 

Behind the tasting bar, where the wine is stored, is an elevator lift to the second floor, a sort of hospital ward, the skeleton of which is still visible. Right as you enter the tasting room, immediately on your right, is a large wooden door with an elaborate lock and key. Behind that door is a hidden stairwell which leads to what was the morgue. If you are lucky enough to visit the winery on a day when one of the pouring staff are available to show you around (as it is not part of the regular tour), there are a number of amazing stories of ghosts...

It seems back when the building was the home for fallen women, one particular women named Madeleine kept trying to escape. I was told she would sneak out at night, be found by troopers the next day, and was brought back.   This apparently happened a number of times until the occasion when she disappeared and it was thought that Madeleine finally made her great escape.

However, years later when the building was being retrofitted for earthquake compliance, a skeleton was discovered - Madeleine's skeleton. Many people who have worked there over the years have stories of things they have heard or experienced.

When I have brought friends to visit the winery, they get spooked out by the hallway and framework of the individual rooms upstairs. I get the willies downstairs, looking at the door which leads to the morgue, which is now used as a breakroom and wine storage (gosh, it IS the perfect temperature!)

Now it is back to being a winery, albeit one with lots of backbone and history. Taken over by the Bundschu family in 1994, their winemaker, Linda Trotter, is doing a great job in turning out some very respectable wines:

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, San Lucas Vineyard - From Monterey vineyards, 495 cases produced on a modified lyre trellis. Bouquet of rich, tropical fruit which doesn't disappoint upon entry where kiwi and pineapple appear on the tongue. A rich, creamy melon continues after the swallow and finishes with a light tang. Very nice and not overly acidic.

2001 Estate Chardonnay - 328 cases. Full overt tangerine nose which, after a bit of swirling, gave way to aromas of an elegant, Oriental spice. I detected a rich mid-palate of star anise. Well structured and not overly oaked or buttered with only 30% malo.

2001 Estate Pinot - Valentine, garnet red color, clear and bright. Aromas of cherry and toffee anticipate rich tastes of dark raspberry and spice. A very long, complex finish.

2001 Apparition - A blend wine of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot. 650 cases produced. Allspice, blackberry, and cedar bouquet. A decent mouthfeel but hot and a little tannic gives way to a metallic finish.

2000 Desnudos Cabernet - 354 cases. Mineral and constrained nose. Rich, complex mid-palate but a harsh, acidic finish.

2002 Estate Zinfandel - 200 cases. Orange edge in color. Elegant, caramel nose which is soft and easy to smell. The first taste produces a structured taste with a soft edge. Lovely, candy and cream mint Andes sensation. A very easy wine to drink.

Bartholomew Park ~ 1000 Vineyard Lane ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 95476 ~ 707-935-9511

B.R. Cohn - 18

B.R. Cohn is a bit of anomoly in that it is a winery that also produces and sells olive oil. But B.R. Cohn is also a pioneer in the practice of producing olive oil and more and more wineries are growing grapes and producing oils. It seems that Bruce Cohn owned the olive orchard back into the 1970s and didn't start his winery until 1984. From my short stint in the olive oil industry, I did learn that there are agricultural areas in Northern California which mirror that area of the Mediterranean which produces supreme olive oils. In the case of Cohn, the vineyards are surrounded by 90 acres olives known as Olive Hill Estate. I appreciate that the Cohn winery has utilized the olive branch motif on their label as I appreciate their non-wine products. But wine is what I was there to taste...

A brief note on their tasting room before I get to the wines. It is a pretty standard room as far as tasting rooms are concerned -- a large bar area surrounded by various retail offerings; t-shirts, glasses, decanters, etc. However they also supplement their offerings with the aforementioned oils as well as hand-painted, decorate olive-bedecked trays and serving dishes. I was surprised, however, at the refrigeration unit in the corner where Coca-Cola was being sold along side bottled water. I can expound upon suggested reasons, but suffice to say that I just found it surprising.

Our pourer for the day was graciously offered a vertical tasting of several estate Cohn Cabernets. It was great to be able to taste some history:

1995 Olive Hill Estate Cabernet - Bouquet of cedar and roasted berries. Slightly bricky color on the edge. Supple tones of oak and cedar alongside the dark cassis in the mouth. Great aromas continued to waft through. This is a wine that is drinking very well right now.

1999 Olive Hill Estate Cabernet - Complex and layered aromas of cherry and tobacco. Paled a bit on the finish with acidic tannins.

2000 Olive Hill Estate Cabernet - Green, fruity nose. The mid-palate was showing blueberry but there was very little finish.

2001 Olive Hill Estate Cabernet - Oak and blackberry aromas. Fabulous entry with a grassy mouthfeel. Very lovely, spicy finish. I think this is a wine that will age well.

1999 Special Selection - This wine comes from the oldest vines on the estate. It had a great, full black currant nose. Black raspberry and currant was not as dark as expected from the aromas. Creamy on entry with a tight finish that thinned a bit.

2002 Sonoma Valley Syrah/Cabernet - 60% Cabernet and 40% Syrah. This was a wine I ended up buying. Very huge, jammy nose with opulent, spicy notes. Great drinker now with deep, elegant fruit bomb with a tremendously long finish.

B.R. Cohn ~ 15000 Sonoma Highway ~ Glen Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-938-4585

Loxton Cellars - 17

Hidden just off Highway 12 between downtown Sonoma and Santa Rosa are a handful of small communities. Glen Ellen (considered to be within the Sonoma Valley appellation) houses a number of small wineries. They are often difficult to find and in the case of Loxton Cellars, well worth the effort.

My friend Eric White recommended Loxton because he knows of my love of big reds. Besides a single Chardonnay, all Christ Loxton produces are Zinfandels and Syrahs. He is definitely my kind of guy. The tasting room is wholly and entirely unpretentious, just a few barrels holding up some planks in the buildings where the barrels are housed. No pretense and no fuss - just really great wine from a incredibly fascinating Australian.

2003 Hawk Hill Chardonnay - At almost 100% ML, this was not a style I truly appreciate, but I could detect the quality of the intense aromas of tropical fruit on the nose and a long, creamy finish.

2002 Stonetree Zinfandel, Sonoma County - This was an amazingly luscious wine. I perceived a very elegant aroma of sweet anise on the nose. Christ got excited at that perception and immediately began telling me about the wild fennel which is grown nearby. A layered mid-palate showed strong dark raspberry and an even tannin. As I don't often do, this wine was purchased.

2000 Sonoma Shiraz, Sonoma County - A tad pale for Shiraz/Syrah (I forgot to ask why he had both a Shiraz and a Syrah...) While not one to lay down, the accessibility of this wine made the lighter mid-palate easy to drink immediately. Cherry finish with a tad of black pepper.

2001 Hillside Vineyards Syrah, Sonoma County - From Christs' notes, this wine is actually 48% Russian River Valley, 42% Sonoma Mountain, and 10% Sonoma Valley. Merlot-like aromas of blackberry. Full mouthfeel and a peppery, spicy finish. Not at all over acidic.

2003 Stonetree Late Harvest Zinfandel, Sonoma County - This wine was a shocker. I am so over tasting late-harvest this or late-harvest that which doesn't actually taste like the wine it should be. So many late-harvest wines taste more like syrup and this wine actually TASTED like a Zinfandel! Dark, concentrated fruit with a hint of chocolate and dark raspberry. Complex and lovely.

2003 Rubaiyat Syrah Port, Sonoma Mountain - Incredibly dark, inky wine. Very complex and layered aromas. Intense rich wine which I would like to try with Roquefort. Christs WAS handing out chocolates which did go very nicely.

Loxton Wines ~ 11466 Dunbar Road ~ Glenn Ellen ~ CA ~ 95442 ~ 707-935-7221